There can be quite some confusion when it comes to choosing between Chulu East VS Chulu West. Both peaks are unique, and the climbs are extraordinarily adventurous journeys. So, which one should you go for?
Chulu Peak consists of Chulu East (6584 m), Chulu West (6419 m), and Chulu Far East (6059 m). It lies in the Annapurna region of Nepal and takes you to the far side of the Annapurna Massif. Chulu East and Chulu West are two of the most popular trekking peaks in the country. They are training grounds for mountaineers who are looking to join high-mountain expeditions. However, there are differences in their routes, challenges, and climbing skills.
It is important to understand their differences so that climbers can choose the one that best suits their skills, experiences, fitness, and goals. In this article, we will discuss both peaks in detail so you can decide which one is suitable for you. Now, without further ado, let us begin!
Introduction & History
Chulu East is comparatively more technical and challenging. It is slightly higher than Chulu West but more accessible, and the trail to the summit is also technically more straightforward than Chulu West. The peak lies right above Manang and offers breathtaking views of the Annapurna ranges, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu. The German expedition team first submitted it in 1955. However, Chulu East started gaining national and international interest after Nepal started promoting trekking peaks in the 1970s. Its location near the Annapurna Circuit further increased its popularity.
Chulu West is less technical but still a demanding adventure. It lies to the north of the Annapurna Circuit. The route to the summit is steeper and more challenging. Therefore, climbers must have good fitness and technical knowledge to climb past steep sections. The Japanese expedition team was the first to reach the summit of Chulu West in 1953. During the early 20th century, the peak was among the underrated trekking peaks in Nepal. However, it soon gained popularity due to its challenging trails and stunning views.
Location and Geographical Features
Chulu East is the larger part of the Chulu range and extends to the north of the Annapurna Massif. It is part of the Damodar Himal, a sub-range of the Himalayas. Its exact geographical coordinates are approximately. 28°44′N, 84°03′E. To reach Chulu East’s summit, climbers must trek on a mix of rocky, icy, and snowy terrains. Similarly, they must also cross steep icy slopes and crevassed glaciers. There are some technical sections that require some technical climbing and mountaineering skills. The Chulu East Base Camp sits at an altitude of 5140 meters.
Chulu West is part of the Chulu massif, which lies north of the Annapurna range. It is more accessible from the Annapurna Circuit trek trail and is often climbed from either Ledar or Yak Kharka, close to Thorong La Pass. Compared to Chulu East, it lies in a more remote location. The geographical coordinates of Chulu West are approximately. 28°44′N, 84°02′E. The terrain is similar to Chulu East and contains a mix of ice, snow, and rocks. However, it requires advanced technical skills to overcome the glaciers and steeper crevasses to reach the summit of Chulu West. The peak’s base camp sits at an altitude of 4900 meters.
Chulu East Vs Chulu West Difficulty and Climbing Challenges
Chulu East Difficulty:
Chulu East is a moderate to difficult grade trekking peak. It has an alpine grading of PD+ (Peu Difficile or slightly difficult). As the route to the summit is straightforward, climbers only need basic mountaineering skills. There is no need for advanced technical skills. However, climbing to the top on rocky and icy terrain requires reasonable fitness. Climbers must have basic glacier travel skills and knowledge of using mountaineering gear like crampons, ice axes, ropes, etc. They have to climb slopes with 40 to 50 degree inclinations.
There is also the risk of altitude sickness and unpredictable weather changes. Sudden snowstorms with strong winds and drops in temperature can add more challenges to climbing Chulu East’s summit. Although beginners can participate, prior experience is extremely helpful. Acclimatizing is crucial to minimizing the risk of altitude sickness. The Chulu East Peak journey is less technical but a long and exhausting climb to the summit.
Chulu West Difficulty:
Chulu West is more demanding than Chulu East and requires good mountaineering and technical skills. Its alpine grading is PD+/ AD (Assez Difficile or fairly difficult). Climbers must be physically fit and healthy to overcome the challenging terrain of Chulu West. The route has steeper and more demanding sections to the summit than the East. It also has more extensive glaciers with hidden crevasses, so climbers must know glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. Hence, it is more suitable for experienced climbers.
Similarly, climbers must have a good knowledge of using mountaineering gear to navigate the challenging terrains of Chulu West. Like Chulu East, climbers must climb icy slopes of 40 to 50 degrees. There is a higher risk of altitude sickness as it takes longer to reach the summit of Chulu West. Reaching the top from the High Camp takes 12 to 16 hours for a round trip. Due to the high altitude, the weather is also unpredictable, with risks of sudden snowstorms and strong winds. There is also an increased risk of avalanches. Acclimatization is essential to minimize the risk. Similarly, trekkers must be ready for a technically demanding climb and a longer summit day.
Climbing Routes and Itinerary
Chulu East route and itinerary
The entire Chulu East Climbing journey takes 14 to 18 days, depending on the route. It begins with a drive from Kathmandu to Chame, or you can drive to Ngadi and trek to Chamje, Dharapani, and then to Chame. Usually, Chame is the starting point of the trek. From here, you will traverse the diverse landscapes of the Annapurna region and pass by traditional villages and settlements. You will pass by notable villages like Pisang, Humde, Julu, etc., to reach the Chulu East Base Camp.
During the journey, you will acclimatize at Julu and then at Chulu East Base Camp. The small village of Julu sits at an altitude of 4000 meters above sea level. It is at a perfect altitude for acclimatization. Similarly, the Chulu East Base Camp will be the second acclimatization stop, and the base camp sits at an elevation of 5140 meters above sea level. From the base camp, you will climb to Chulu East High Camp at 5800 meters and then to the summit (6584 meters). After reaching the top, you will descend while passing by Manang, Ledar, Thorung Phedi, Muktinath, and Jomsom. Then, you will fly back to Pokhara and drive/ fly to Kathmandu.
Chulu West route and itinerary
Chulu West Climbing is more demanding than Chulu East. As a result, it takes 16 to 20 days to complete, depending on the route. Like Chulu East, the journey to Chulu West begins with a drive from Kathmandu to Chame. You will follow a similar trail up until Pisang. Then, you will trek towards Manang. Then, you will trek past Yak Kharka village and climb to Chulu West Base Camp. From there, you will ascend to High Camp at an altitude of 5500 meters and finally to the summit (6419 meters).
Manang and the Chulu West Base Camp serve as the two important acclimatization stops during our journey. Manang sits at an altitude of 3540 meters while the base camp is at an altitude of 4900 meters. After summiting Chulu West Peak, you will return to base camp and follow the same route as the Chulu East Peak journey. You will traverse Ledar, Thorung Phedi, Thorong Pass, Muktinath, and then to Jomsom. Then, you will take a flight to Pokhara from Jomsom. Finally, you can either fly or drive to Kathmandu.
Acclimatization and Altitude Considerations
Both Chulu East and Chulu West are high-altitude climbs that take you above 6000 meters above sea level. Therefore, there is a high risk of altitude sickness during the climb. Above an altitude of 2500 meters, the oxygen level in the atmosphere begins to decrease. Similarly, the air pressure also reduces, which leads to trekkers feeling various symptoms of altitude sickness. The oxygen level at 5500 meters is only 50% of sea level. The symptoms of altitude sickness can vary from mild to severe. It can also quickly turn deadly if climbers do not take proper precautions.
To minimize or prevent the risk of altitude sickness, it is crucial to take acclimatization days. During the Chulu East Peak Climbing, you will take acclimatization days at Julu Village and Chulu East Base Camp. Similarly, for the Chulu West Peak Climbing, you will take acclimatization at Manang and Chulu West Base Camp. Acclimatization helps your body to adapt to the growing altitude and changing surroundings. The body also produces more red blood cells that transport oxygen more efficiently.
In addition to taking acclimatization days, climbers should gradually ascend to higher altitudes. This gives their bodies adequate time to adjust to their surroundings and recover faster. Rushing to reach the top can be dangerous, as your body struggles and gets tired quickly. It also becomes more challenging to breathe, and climbers can experience severe altitude sickness symptoms.
In addition to gradual ascent and acclimatization, climbers must keep themselves hydrated. Climbers should not push themselves and listen to their bodies. They can take medications like actezolamide or diamax to help them relieve the symptoms. However, it is important to consult health professionals before taking the medications. If you start experiencing the symptoms of altitude sickness, let our guide know immediately. They will take appropriate action to ensure your well-being and safety.
Required Skills and Gear
Chulu East skills and gear requirements:
There are not many technical sections along the Chulu East route. Therefore, climbers do not need to have extensive technical skills for the climb. However, they must have good mountaineering skills. They must also know how to use mountain gears. The list of gear necessary for the Chulu East climb are:
- Ice axe: Climbing on steep and icy slopes
- Harness and ropes: Climbing and safety
- Crampons: Prevent slipping on icy slopes
- Ascender/ Jumar: Easier movement on fixed ropes
- Mountaineering boots: Prevent frostbite and safe movement on snow
- Carabiners: Securing climbing gears and slopes
- Helmet: Prevents head injury
- Gaiters: To keep snow out of the boots
- Ice climbing gloves: To protect hands from frostbite
- Layered clothing: To keep the body warm and dry during extreme temperatures
- Oxygen system: Supplement oxygen and mask to help breathe in high altitude
- First aid kit: Treat minor sickness during the journey
Chulu West skills and gear requirements:
Chulu West is more challenging than Chulu East, with more technical sections. As a result, climbers must have technical skills to undertake the venture. They must also know how to use the snow and mountaineering gear. The climb is more suitable for experienced climbers. The list of gear and climbing equipment necessary for the Chulu West Climb are:
- Technical Ice axe: Climbing on steep and icy sections
- Harness and ropes: Climbing and safety
- Crampons: Prevent slipping on icy slopes
- Ascender/ Jumar: Easier movement on fixed ropes
- Technical climbing boots: For steep climbing and movement in mixed terrains
- Carabiners: Securing climbing gears and slopes
- Avalanche safety gear: To safely climb past avalanche-prone areas
- Snow and ice protection devices: Like snow pickets to anchor ropes in the snow
- Helmet: Prevents head injury
- Gaiters: To keep snow out of the boots
- Ice climbing gloves: To protect hands from frostbite
- Layered clothing: To keep the body warm and dry during extreme temperatures
- Oxygen system: Supplement oxygen and mask to help breathe in high altitude
- First aid kit: Treat minor sickness during the journey
Cost and Accessibility
The cost of Chulu East Peak ranges between USD 2500 and 3000 per person. It is accessible from the Annapurna Circuit route, making arranging logistic support more manageable. Meanwhile, the cost of climbing Chulu West Peak is slightly higher due to its remote location, longer duration, and more demanding routes. It ranges from USD 2800 to 3500 per person.
The cost includes accommodations, meals, transportation, permits, guides, and porter fees. The fees for hiring a guide range from USD 25 to 40 per day. Meanwhile, the cost of hiring a porter can range between USD 20 to 30 per day. Tips are not included in the mentioned fees. For the trek, you will need three different permits. You will need a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card, an ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Entry Permit), and a peak climbing permit from the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association).
The TIMS costs around USD 20, and ACAP is around USD 25 per person. The cost of NMA varies depending on the season. They are as follows:
| Spring | Autumn | Winter | Summer | |
| Chulu East | $400 | $200 | $100 | $100 |
| Chulu West | $250 | $125 | $70 | $70 |
Note: The cost does not include visa fees, travel insurance, equipment, and other personal expenses.
Right Time For The Climb
The best and right time for climbing Chulu East and Chulu West is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Summer (June to August) collides with monsoons, which is not ideal for climbing either of the peaks. Meanwhile, winter’s extreme weather (December to February) makes climbing the peaks more challenging and hazardous.
Best seasons:
Spring:
The climbing season begins from late March to May in the spring season. The moderate temperature and pleasant weather make it one of the best times to climb Chulu peaks. The sky is clear, and the visibility is clear. Hence, you can witness clear views of the mountain vistas. During spring, the entire rhododendron groves and other floras along the trail bloom, coloring the whole Annapurn landscapes.
Autumn
Autumn is the peak climbing season due to the stable weather and mild temperatures. The sunny days and crisp autumn air make it one of the best times to undertake the venture. Similarly, visibility is extremely clear during autumn. The precipitation level is low, so the season is dry and perfect for trekking and peak climbing. There are low weather-related risks at this time of the year. Another great thing about climbing in autumn is the chance to enjoy the festive atmosphere of Nepal. Many big festivals fall during autumn, which makes the venture more exciting.
Off-seasons:
Summer
As mentioned above, summer collides with monsoon. As a result, there is heavy rainfall in most of the hilly areas of the country. There are high risks of landslides and mudslides during the summer. The high precipitation level also affects visibility. Heavy rain clouds obstruct the views, and the chances of flight delays or cancellations are also higher during the summer. So, summer is not recommended for climbing Chulu peaks.
Winter
Climbing during winter is extremely dangerous and not recommended. The weather turns cold, and heavy snowfall occurs in the higher-altitude regions. The snow gradually piles up, blocking the trails, making navigating the route more challenging. Similarly, the temperature dips and drops below the freezing zone. Frequent snowstorms may also reduce visibility. Moreover, there is an increased risk of avalanches during winter.
Notable Climbs and Records
The first successful climb to the summit of the Chulu East Peak was by a German expedition team in 1955. However, some historical record state that Dick Isherwood and John Noble were the first people to reach the top in 1979 via the northeast ridge.
Meanwhile, a Japanese expedition team was the first to reach the Chulu West Peak summit. They achieved the feat in 1952. Although their route is not well-documented, their success marked Chulu West’s introduction to the mountaineering world.
Should You Go For Chulu East Climbing Or Chulu West?
Before we jump to answer the question, let us look at the summary between Chulu East and Chulu West:
| Feature | Chulu East | Chulu West |
| Altitude | 6584 m | 6419 m |
| Duration | 14 – 18 days | 16 – 20 days |
| Difficulty | PD+ (Peu Difficile) or Moderate | PD+/ AD (Assez Difficile) or Fairly difficult |
| Technical challenge | Less technical but requires mountaineering skills. | More technical and requires technical climbing skills. |
| Base Camp altitude | 5400 m | 4900 m |
| Suitable for | Beginners & intermediate climbers | Experienced & seasoned climbers |
Now that we know about both Chulu East and Chulu West Peak climbing, which one should you choose? The answer entirely depends on your fitness, preferences, and needs.
If you are a beginner with reasonable fitness, Chulu East is a better choice. It is less technical, and the duration is shorter. Its cost is also slightly lower. However, the highest point of the climb is slightly higher. Chulu West is more suitable for experienced climbers with technical skills. The route is more demanding and technical than Chulu East. It also takes longer days to complete the venture, and the cost is slightly higher.
Conclusion
When it comes to Chulu East climbing VS Chulu West, the decision depends on the climber. Both ventures are equally adventurous and thrilling. These climbing peaks are challenging and will push the climbers and test their strength and endurance. Chulu West is comparatively more demanding and more suitable for experienced climbers. Its technical route may not be suitable for beginners. However, the straightforward trail of Chulu East is by no means an easy venture. It does require reasonable fitness and proper preparation.
We hope you find the information helpful in making your decision. For any other information related to trekking and climbing in Nepal, remember Nepal Base Camp Trek. You can visit our website or contact us for any further queries!
